WTF

What The Furikake?

My friend Jean recounted a wonderful dinner party she had with her family and salmon furikake.   It sounded like they had such a good time, and I know Jean to be a down-to-earth eater whose father supplied Alice Waters with mulberries.  What better foodie recommendation could I have to try this Japanese seasoning? 

But, “What in the world is fuikake?”, you ask--as did I.  Furikake is a Japanese rice seasoning.  The usual predominant ingredient is bonito (tuna) flakes, but it also has seaweed and sesame (and some sugar).  Different variations exist.

I went on a shopping bonanza in “town” (Spokane) at one of the 3 Asian markets over Christmas and was ecstatic to see Furikake in the dry goods sections.   I must have been jumping up and down in delight, as Mr. Artifact and Number One Son rounded the aisle wondering if I needed assistance.  I bought Noritamago Furikaki (sesame, wheat, dried yolk powder, sugar, salt, shave bonito, and seaweed) and Katsuo Fumi Furikaki (shaved bonito, sesame seed, sugar, salt, soy sauce, seaweed).

Here is what I have done with them so far:

Katsuo:  sprinkled over grilled fish and served with a pho broth (with noodles, green onions, green chiles,  sautéed garlic, and shredded Daikon and carrot)

Noritamgo: sprinkled on homemade mayonnaise that topped some salmon baked in black bean curd sauce and served with rice

Both were pretty yummy.  I think they would also be great sprinkled on rice—as is their advertised purpose.

This was a tasty new addition to my pantry.

Here’s a cool recipe for Furitaki Chex Mix   that I am really excited to try. What do you think?

Broth Pageant #1

This weekend I made another batch of broth, something I do every 2-3 weeks.  I was out of leftover chicken/turkey carcasses and only had a ham bone from a relic of a spiral sliced ham we had around Christmas. So, I was faced with buying some bones.  My local market regularly has these.  Imagine my surprise to find that they are no longer cheap or free!  After paying $1.90/lb for 4 lbs of bones (most of which appeared to be upper femurs and pelvises from young cows) I trundled home along with the rest of my groceries.

To get the best flavor, you need to roast the bones.  I wacked mine with some olive oil and salt and stuck them in the oven at 350 for about an hour.  They did smell delicious and rendered off a nice bit of fat (that I gave to the chickens). 

Then, they and my old ham bone went into the stock pot with the usual suspects:  onion, garlic (fresh and some leftover roasted garlic), celery, carrots, fennel, star anise, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, tarragon, rosemary, bay leaves, a quarter of a lemon, sea salt and pepper corns.  After 4 hours simmering, it was ready to be strained and filtered. Then I gave it another hour to reduce.  It was a pretty brown, but I wanted it darker and sweeter, so I added a tablespoon of Kitchen Bouquet (shhh. . . don’t tell anyone!) and a tablespoon of sugar.  Owing to the all the marrow, the broth was/is really rich.

It yielded 20 cups of shimmery and gelatinous, mahogany broth.  But I forgot to take a picture!

But, have no fear; I have pictures of many other broth adventures.  You know, some people take pictures of sunsets or cats, but I take pictures of broth . . . well, at least some of the time. 

So, here is my first installment of the Broth Pageant!

p.s.  I gave the leftover meat/cartilage bits, carrots, celery and garlic to the dogs.  No wonder they hang around the kitchen! (Sorry, no cooked bones or onions for dogs!—a different post.)



All the goodies at the start of something great!





Looks like lots of carrots in this beef broth.



Love the herbs, star anise, cinnamon and garlic!  Very picturesque.



Yeah, that's a payday!





Broth Tips

With the roaring popularity of the Broth Importantly post (all 250,000 of you who read it—thank you), I wanted to add some information to address questions you may have now and in the future.

Q:  My mom always stuck the cloves into the onions in the broth. Do I need to do this or is it OK to just drop the cloves in?

A:  First of all, your hanging preposition is forgiven.  You can impale the onions or not—your choice.  Sticking the cloves into the onion has the benefit of preventing the cloves and the onion skins from floating loose all over your pot.  This step probably won’t matter anyway if you are adding all the other spices, though.  It has no effect on the taste. (Don’t tell your mom.)   But, it is kind of fun to do, and when your husband is watching you do this, he will think you are really smart.

Q:  After I strained out my vegetables and meat, I tasted my broth prior to reducing.  It was definitely bitter.  Why did this happen, and can this broth be saved?

A:   You have a two part question!  We only allow one part questions.  I am sorry, but an answer cannot be provided.  Oh, what the heck:

Several factors contribute to sour or bitter broth: 

·         Burned bones or vegetables (if you pre-roasted them)

·         Overabundance of bitter vegetables, herbs or spices (celery, parsley, rosemary, cilantro, cilantro seed, cloves, allspice, black peppercorns)

·         Too much citrus for too long (something I really like, but have now learned is best added the last hour of simmering.  Add a half a lemon for some nice zing during the end of simmering.)

·         Impatience in general (you’re not done yet, so don’t give up)

·         Impatience with dried mushrooms (if you used dried mushrooms—a super addition for beef and veal broth—not so great with chicken broth.  Rehydrate them next time prior to adding to the broth.  If you did not, you’ll just have to let them have more time.)

·         Alcohol (not good at the start of any broth.   Wait til it’s almost done before you start drinking next time.)   

Saving the broth—between each of these cures, you must taste.  If fixed, proceed no further!  These cures assume you have a pot of about 10 cups of broth.

·         Reduce and add salt (this may improve the flavor—some sea salt is actually somewhat sweet)

·         Add a cup or two of carrots, sweet potatoes, apples, or parsnips, or a combo of them, to your strained broth and simmer for 25 minutes (you’ll have to strain again, though)

·         Once reduced, if still bitter, add a teaspoon of brown sugar or raw cane sugar at a time (be very sparing with this—you are not making teriyaki and you do not want a sweet taste)

·         Once reduced, if still bitter, add 2 teaspoons of apple cider vinegar or ¼ C of apple cider

·         If beef or veal stock:  once reduced, add a teaspoon of soy sauce at a time (teriyaki warning above)

·         If beef or veal stock:  once reduced, add 2 teaspoons of Kitchen Bouquet (frankly, this works nicely even if there is not a problem.)

·         Get desperate and put some raw ground beef or raw poultry chopped fine (8 oz or less) and mixed with an egg white (depending   upon whether you have beef or poultry stock) back into the broth.  Let it float to top and do NOT disturb the raft of meat.  Simmer very low and do NOT stir to avoid breaking up the raft.  After 40 minutes on very low, skim off the raft and strain your stock/broth again.  Frankly, this last step is so pathetic, you might as well start over again and use the meat you will likely waste in your new stock.

·         Alcohol  (If all else fails, pour another glass of wine and drink it.  Dump the broth out for the dogs. They’ll really like it.  Gravy Train!   Chock up the experience to one of life’s little lessons.)

Q:  What items in a broth make it sweet? Which bitter?

A:  Carrots, garlic and parsnips add sweetness the broth.  Parsley and celery are more bitter.  Failure is also bitter, but not if you ask the dogs after they’ve enjoyed your failed experiment.

Q:  What is the best container and method to store my awesome broth?

A:  If you are using it within the next 2 days, put it in the fridge.  However, you’ll make so much that you’ll likely want to freeze it.  I like leftover Parmesan cheese or salsa plastic containers from the grocery store. (Question from Mr. Artifact:  “What do those poor Parmesians know about broth anyway?”)  They are each about 2 cups, which is a great size for your individual use and for stacking in the freezer.  If you really won’t use more than a ¼ C at a time, you can freeze it in ice cube trays, then unmold and put into baggies in the freezer.  It will last about 6 months, but you will be unlikely to ever have any that long.  I find that I have to make broth every 1-2 weeks.  Once you have it, you will find it will become indispensible to you.

Q:  How in the world do you use up so much broth in a typical week?

A:  Here are uses in our household over the last week or so that used approximately 8 cups of broth:

·         deglazed pan, reduced juices, and made a nifty sauce with butter to lap stuffed leg of lamb and mashed turnips and potatoes

·         substituted broth for half of water in recipe for fennel and bean soup

·         cooked rice pilaf in broth instead of water

·         made gravy for chicken and apple sausage stuffing dumplings

And, if you make pho (excellent Vietnamese noodle soup), you’ll use up 8-10 cups with that recipe alone!

Q:  My broth is cloudy and murky.  Why?

A:  There are several explanations for this:

·         Chemistry:  Murky broth is caused by particulate matter in the liquid suspension.

·         Sloth:  You were too lazy to cut the fat off your meat, it melted and then your pot boiled, creating this mess.

·         Incompetence:  You forgot that you are not supposed to boil your broth after the initial boil.

·         Cheapness:  You won’t buy the cheesecloth to strain the broth because it is too expensive.

Whatever your reason, if you are not out to impress people, the cloudiness of the broth shouldn’t affect the taste.  It is nice to have a clear broth if you are going to make soups, aspics or light sauces, though.  And it will have a cleaner “mouth feel” if more of the fat is out.

Cures can be performed in any order, but first let the broth cool—even chill—and take off the fat that forms at the top.

·         Double or triple strain it through multiple layers of cheesecloth, and finally if necessary through a coffee filter (which will take a very long time—you should be able to listen to an entire Pink Martini CD during this process!).

·         Add a couple eggs shells (don’t wash them out—the leftover whites will help to pick up the impurities) and slowly warm.  Strain afterwards.